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The light on the landscape and the visual scale of the landscape have both been photographically challenging  here in the Chihuahuan Desert down near the Rio Grande.

The morning temps and age have conspired to keep me away from the early morning light and age and laziness have conspired to keep me away from the evening light; other than those times, the light is pretty harsh and the skies are the brightest blue.

I have figured out the scale perspective for me at least. This area is three parts: one part (way dry and almost dead) desert, one part (rough and rugged earth toned) mountains and one part (greenish) river corridor. The key has been to include all three. That was done best on the River Road, Texas FM 170 (FM standing for Farm to Market) along the Mexican – US border on the southern edge of Big Bend Ranch SP in Texas. The views here are from off of ‘the Big Hill’ looking south and west into Mexico across the Rio Grande.

Within Big Bend National Park they were talking of the current drought in these terms: Over the past 18 months they have registered 4 inches of precipitation. Normal for that period of time is 20 inches of precipitation. Apparently it is worse outside of the park. The meager amount of water that we witnessed in the Rio Grande apparently comes out of the mountains in Chihuahua Mexico via the Rio Conchos. North of that major tributary the water in the Rio Grande seems to be consumed by agricultural uses and development.

The Rio Grande is disappearing as a river system.

BJ’s RV in Terlingua where we stayed is on town water. The water is pumped up out of a subterranean  reservoir through thick stainless steel piping at a temperature over 110 degrees. Then it must be cooled, settled, reverse osmosed, desalinated and purified then delivered (30,000 gallons pumped per day on average) at so much ($$) per gallon.” The Study Butte Water Supply Corp. (SBWSC),  is providing drinking water to 103 customers through 21 miles of pipelines, serving a population of about 700 people.”

Driving down here from Alpine, heck since we’ve been in the State of Texas, we have been a little overwhelmed by the Border Patrol presence. Green and white trucks appearing out of nowhere following for a time then roaring around and disappearing over the horizon. I am sure immigration is an issue but I just have not seen it locally. The locals chalk the Border Patrol presence and the immigration issue frenzy up to 9/11. Prior to 9/11 there was a much freer and easier access across the river border, going both ways. 9/11 did change all. I also overhear lots of ‘over breakfast’ commentary on local police forces having more federal dollars than they know what to do with. Apparently the militarized riot police presence we have seen of late is a result of those dollars. Not sure I need my local police department to be an armed militia on par with the armed forces or national guard.

Wildlife, with the exception of a few birds and the apparently desert hardy Road Runner, goes to ground during the day in the desert even in the winter months. Other than a couple of notable and enjoyable Road Runner sightings and a good looking camp-fed coyote skulking around camp in the headlights one evening we have seen no wildlife here in the desert. I need to go sit in an arroyo somewhere after the sun goes down and just listen.

Deep West Texas, a rugged place: desert, mountain and river.